Ogawa

At Ogawa, part of the pleasure lies in following the seasonal courses one by one and looking forward to the rice at the end. One account of dinner begins with chilled crab served with local vegetables and pickles, followed by rice with crab miso and seaweed. The diner remembered the progression from a cool dish to warm rice, and the occasional tartness of pickles in the rice. A chestnut course from the same meal paired steamed and fried chestnuts with a warm dashi jelly. The diner described a balance of chestnut sweetness, the broth’s gentle bitterness and the crisp texture of the fried chestnuts. With seasonal ingredients at the centre of the cooking, the dishes also change with the time of year.

At lunch, one diner particularly enjoyed a bowl of conger eel, Spanish mackerel sashimi and milk ice cream. Another dinner account mentions steamed egg custard with pufferfish milt and a tasting of different kinds of tuna, followed by rice served with a choice of side dishes from a selection of ten. Allow plenty of time if you want to savour the succession of courses. One lunch took about two hours and left the diner full; another account describes taking dinner at a leisurely pace. This is a meal to enjoy as the dishes unfold, rather than to rush through.

For those looking forward to the final rice course, rice with karasumi—salted mullet roe—is another tempting possibility. Other dishes listed include tuna topped with karasumi, Kenken bonito from Wakayama, white tilefish from Yawatahama, and strawberry daifuku with ice cream. Listings do not necessarily reflect what is currently available, and dishes may vary by season and timing. One lunch guest had sake chosen to accompany the meal, while a dinner guest also enjoyed sake with the dishes. Beer and wine are available too, offering other options to pair with the food.

Reservations are recommended for both lunch and dinner, and can be made in advance. If you are planning a leisurely kaiseki meal, it is worth booking a seat before you go.